Hanging Teeth

Hanging Teeth... the right most of the 5 open books. This route includes fun moderate liebacking, some chimney climbing, and a variety of crack sizes. The route is a bit dirty and can be wet, but overall a very fun climb!

The first pitch follows the big and mostly clean corner. Cruise on up the 5.7 lieback to the rooflet. There is a crack right at the lip of the roof, you can reach around and place gear before you commit to the move. A few more feet of climbing leads to the belay tree.

The second pitch follows a well protected low angle chimney, then wide crack, and finally fingers to another belay tree. The final pitch involves some more excellent corner liebacking (through potential seepage and slime). Finally climb through some rotten and loose rock and pull onto a small ledge where the route merges with the caverns. Through the trees to the right, or top out to the left.

Top out into the typical 5 Open Books scree funnel and try not to send anything onto anyone below. Enjoy!

The rightmost of the 5 open books. The trail drawing in the supertopo led us astray and made me think this was The Surprise. Confirm it's the Hanging Teeth by walking right... no more open books. If you have the supertopo, it's also easy to walk left a short ways and locate the Caverns, easily distinguishable by the toothy block start below the low tree.

A standard rack won't cut it unless you run it out. The supertopo suggests 2 5-8" pieces. However, the climbing is secure. Well, secure as a lieback ever is anyway.