Turtle Dome Crack

A Rubidoux semi-classic! Made famous for its inclusion in one of John Long's old instructional videos (an interesting sequence appeared in the film showing hand jamming technique, somehow shot from within or from the other side of the boulder). This problem is a must-do, and may also be tried as a difficult lieback (rated B1 in the Craig Fry guide). Done the standard way, tight hands lead to one or two perfect jams and then the crack becomes wider than you'd like far too quickly. Most people opt to lieback to the top once it gets wide, although fists and offwidth techniques will also get you there.

crash pad and spotters, or toprope with 4.5" cam