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MapDescription
I am tempted to rate this route 5.9, this may be the most sandbagged 5.8 in Leavenworth, but in keeping with the guide book it will be a good challenge for the 5.8 leader.
I don't always tape up, but this is better with tape gloves.
Location
After passing a very large roof along the Careno trail Glass Eye stands out as the nice looking vertical hand crack that arches up to the right.
Protection
gear to 4". You may want 2 each Camalot #.5, #2, #3.
there is a bolt for the bolted face climb One Eye that you can clip up near the top
The old bolted anchor is a 20' traverse to the right and is 1/4" rusty bolts and old webbing.
You could also continue up One Eye at the bolt to another bolt above the ledge, to hand crack through a roof to a new SS anchor ( 10b).
Routes in Purina Crags
- 11Glass Eye5.9Trad