Travels with Charlie

A good multipitch moderate climbing five pitches to the summit ridge. As you come around under the south face you will see two large dihedrals with a slab in between. The righty facing dihedral is the start of Travels with Charlie. The middle pitches allow for many variations, some easier, some harder. Thoughtful route finding will keep you from getting sandbagged on a harder variation.

PITCH 1

Climb the right facing corner and chimney to a ledge with a small pine tree.

PITCH 2

Go back to the corner and avoid a difficult section by going in the chimney, then head up and right to A Pitch and Nine Takes Time. Belay here.

PITCH 3

Climb the crack in the face on the left past a loose block. This section was extremely crumbly when we climbed it in June 2020 Be very very careful- all holds are suspect on this section of the climb. There is a stuck cam in the loose block. If you pull on it at all the block moves, and the same goes for most of the lower holds leading up to it. If I climbed it again I would make an effort to skirt around this section entirely.

A long lead-out up easy face leads to a ledge and a groove with some greenery at the belay (or avoid the runout by taking the crack on the left).

PITCH 4

Climb through an awkward roof, then up an outside corner to a ledge under a crack in the face.

PITCH 5

Climb the face/cracks above as the angle lowers. Belay on a slab. From here climb the ridge for several pitches to the summit block. Go around the right side to find the easy route to the top. There is also a rap station to the left around the summit block if you don't want to summit for whatever reason. 3 raps to the ground with a 70m going that way.

From the approach saddle, descend the west gulley to the base of the Hermit. As you come around under the south face you will see two large dihedrals with a slab in between. The right facing dihedral is the start of Travels with Charlie.

standard rack