Rumor Has It

This is a relatively new addition to Fairview, so expect brand new shiny bolts along with the usual crumbly dime edges and bolt spacing that puts hair on your chest. The route follows a very close line to the Regular route. Scramble up to the same stance where you would start reg. route. The topo is very good and easy to follow. All day sun in June with a few shadier corners in the morning, a.m. shade closer to September.

1. Angle up and left on ledgy terrain to a bolt from where the difficulty increases until the crux at the end. Expect 15-20 ft spacing between bolts on 5.10+ dime edges and almost hold-less friction crux towards the top.  7 bolts and a #2 cam. 45 m 11b PG

2. Take the left crack to a belay ledge around on the left arete. Gear. 25 m 5.9

3. Up though the junky rock to a mix of bolted face and intermittent cracks. Watch the ends when rappelling. 35 m 10b

4. Heads-up climbing through a small roof above a bolt and couple of pieces of gear is followed by sustained edging between more closely-spaced bolts. 30 m 11a

5. Start up the loose pillar and clip the lone bolt out right avoiding the roofs above. A couple of moves will bring you over to the crescent ledge and easy terrain. Scramble up to the ledge up and right with the bolted anchor. 25 m 10b

6. This pitch is the reason why I suggested an R rating for the otherwise PG route. Move left to the ramp to gain a foot "ledge" that will bring you back right to the point above the belay. Do a couple more slabby 5.9 moves (ok feet, but no hands) to clip the first of 2 bolts. You are almost soloing this section since a fall would result in broken legs before the rope will catch you. The difficulty eases slightly when you are about 20' above the bolt and almost to the 2nd one. Follow easy cracks to the anchor just below the roofs. 2 bolts and 3-4 pieces. 30 m 11a R

7. Go left to pull over the roof and face climb back right to the knobby crack system. This brings you to the last bolted anchor on the route. Gear. 15 m 5.9

8. Easy 5.7 crack straight up. Scramble another 350' to the summit and walk off to the west (right) or rap without doing this pitch.

Can be rappelled with 1 70 m rope with some downclimbing on p1 (about 20' of 5.6). All anchors are bolted with rap rings except for p1 (shared with the regular route), so a sling needs to be left on the tree if rapelling.

Starts just left of the regular route and shares the belay on top of p. 1. as well as crossing the reg. above the crescent ledge.

Mostly sparsely bolted. 1 70 m rope, single set of cams from green C3 to 2" camalot with optional extra finger-sizes. Stiff shoes. Stoppers are not needed. One leaver sling if rappelling the route.