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Peak Mountain 3

Laurel's Snake Dike

FA Brad Wilson, Mike Fischesser, Joe Lovenshimer
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This a very cool and varied route starting on Laurel's shorter right side that gradually traverses left on a thin quartzite dike and eventually crosses the groove of Manatee Fluid. Don't be worried if some of the streaks and grooves are wet. It's generally pretty easy to step across on large features.

P1- This is a really fun and unique pitch that has very few handholds once you are established on the dike. Start up a weakness above some vegetation and climb straight up past gear to the first bolt. Enjoy a balancey sequence near the second bolt and continue past more bolts and interesting features to a bolted anchor at a nice ledge with a cedar tree. Some gear gear can be placed just before the ledge. 5.10-

P2- This great pitch is very different and much steeper than P1. First, fire the bouldery crux right off the ledge past bolts, then continue along the dike crossing a cool water streak and the Manatee Fluid groove. End at a bolted anchor shared with Laurel's girdle just past the Manatee groove. An added bolt on this pitch makes it much more reasonable for the leader and follower. 5.11b

P3- This pitch is optional but necessary to put you down near your gear at the start. Climb easier terrain up and to the right toward the trees on top to get to three different options for bolted anchors to rappel from. There is no distinct path here, but you'll need to move pretty far right. The most convenient is likely at the top of 'Icecapades' (see photo topo), but the 'Shimer down anchors aren't a bad option either. 5.5

Location

Start- Find an obvious weakness just to the left of the dike and about 20 ft left of 'Shimer Down.

Descent: Study the photo topo (found here:

extrazoom.com/image-20427.html

) and pick your descent. There are 3 good options.

Option 1- Rappel down Manatee Fluid. I haven't tried this since it puts you down far away from your gear but it should take you to the ground pretty easily.

Option 2- Climb P3 to the upper Icecapades anchors. Two double rope rappels should bring you down near your gear.

Option 3- Climb P3 to the 'Shimer Down anchors and make three double rope rappels straight down to your gear.

Protection

Mostly bolts. A slimmer than standard Laurel rack is also necessary. P2 takes two #3 camelots.


Routes in Laurel Knob


  1. 80
    Laurel's Snake Dike
    5.11b
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