Boing-oing-oing

This might is one of the rare .10d to 11a crack routes in LCC and is one of the most fun routes of the crag.

Begin as for

Early Bird

on twin cracks, taking good but precise gear including an in-obvious #4 camalot-sized piece. Look for a left-slanting crack that turns the corner around the arete and get ready to get after it as you move around and into the shallow dihedral on the southern face. Follow this crack system up to the ledge and anchor where

The Worm

ends. The crux seems to be based on the sequence you find getting established and protected in that corner.

If you find the right holds, pulling into and through that dihedral could be as easy as .10c. But if you

don't

find the right holds, it can feel like .11a. I got all kinds of worked up on the first ascent, climbing into/out of that dihedral a bunch of times as I searched for gear and a way through.

About 100 feet up from

Strewn Masters of Gore

.

Nuts, purple tcu through #4 camalot. (extra yellow tcu, .75 camalot or equivalent)