- Edit (TBD)
Description
Another high quality wide crack adventure with good rock all the way to the rim! I'd wager that the crux pitch is as good as any other 5.11 name brand wide crack I've done in Moab.
P1. (5.10+) Climb September Sweat and belay at the ledge. 70'
P2. (5.8 R-) Short pitch starting off with some 5.4 that is far more solid than it looks, leading to a stem box with a bolt. Finish on a nice belay ledge. There is an empty bolt hole above the belay where we used a removable bolt before the choss cleaned up. Feel free to plug a bolt if you want. Optional Blue Bro. 40'
P3. (5.11-) The Money pitch! Scramble up to an overhanging too-tight-to-squeeze bulge (crux) and continue up never ending squeeze fun of all sizes. It's actually overhanging, but you'd never know it. Bring as much 9-12" gear as you can. There is a block at the start of the pitch that I hope gets dropped. On the FA we did a shoulder stand to surpass the block, but once it's gone it'll be a 5.easy mantle. 110'
P4. (5.10+) More squeeze leads to a widening chimney with a few bolts for pro. Place a .75 and #1 in the roof and make an awkward exit right to a shelf. Continue to the top with a short hand crack. 90'
Location
Climb September Sweat then continue.
Protection
Gear .75-12"