Slanty Hands

Traverse in from the left on a perfect handrail about 8 feet off the ground. Establish yourself at the base of the crack using a good undercling, place a solid piece or pro (or two), and crank up the overhang with poor feet.

Just over the crux of Slanted Hands.

Once you have your feet in the crack, continue up excellent jams for hands and fingers and perhaps throw in a layback or two. The climbing eases, but the initial overhang gets you pumped.

The top section is easier - perhaps 5.9 - but the rock quality is lower.

On the left half of this formation, find the large chimney that you can imagine grunting your way up. Start at the base of this chimney, then work out right to the crack on the right side of the right flake that makes the chimney.

Standard rack. Save a few small cams for the top. A #1 Camalot protects the low crux perfectly.