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Peak Mountain 3

Phatt Ass

FA Mark Sargent, Mike Kurilich, Phil Baldwin July 2009
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

5.8/5.9 Start is just right of the large right facing corner. Ascend the crack rising in an upward right traverse, using funky cross-thru lieback moves clipping 7 grey bolts. Pretty cool and unique climbing. More experienced climbers may be able to miss out on some bolts by making semi-blind pro placements at their feet as they layback; just realize the crack flairs in places and the traversing nature of the lower crack combined with the ground upsloping has you at groundfall potential longer than other cracks of this length. However you do it - it’s a climbers choice. Continue up thru the left side of a crack/break placing either a medium stopper or tech friend and then up left for 5 more bolts to anchor. 12 bolts total. 20 meters

Protection

Depending how you approach the lead. Either clip bolts and maybe one medium stopper placement or more experienced leaders could place small/medium cams and small wires. More experienced climbers may be able to miss out on some bolts by making semi-blind pro placements at their feet as they layback; just realize the crack flairs in places and the traversing nature of the lower crack combined with the ground upsloping has you at groundfall potential longer than other cracks of this length. However you do it - it’s a climbers choice.