Pair o’ grins

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Avoid doing this route on crowded days. Best done on a weekday, or early morning)

Important question at the end of description

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A fun second pitch to either hunger pains or Bionic. A 5.9 climb for 5.10 climbers. Bolts are further apart than normal for Auburn Quarry since it’s on a slab and is easier than the approach pitch. The second bolt is easy to reach, but be careful not to fall while clipping it due to the ledge below.

The route trends right from the anchors and follows the shallow S shaped corner over the lip of the cliff up to a nice ledge at the very top of wreckage wall. Most of the climbing takes place on the face to the left of the corner for the first half of the route until it crosses over it near the top.

This is a great multipitch practice route for a confident sport leader. Also has a great view from the top!

Rappel the route with a 70m rope or walk off the top all the way down to the backside of scale wall. The walk off is doable, but is kind of sketchy at one point and only for those who want a bit of an adventure.

(Be very aware of climbers below you while you are climbing this and setting the rappels. The rock is solid and cleaned, but there is some dirt at the top and some pebbles may come down while you’re up there. TIE KNOTS AT THE END OF YOUR ROPE WHEN YOU RAPPEL)

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Do you think it is worth having this route accessible? There’s certainly a risk of rockfall to having climbers on the second pitch while there are people climbing below. That being said this route is fun and great to climb during a non-busy day. Do the benefits of having a new quality climb and second pitch outweigh the potential risks of rockfall caused by someone irresponsible climbing above people while it’s busy? Please comment below. The hangers can always be taken off the bolts if that’s what the community wants.

Climb hunger pains or Bionic. The first bolt is up and right above the grassy ledge.

8 Bolts with chains at the anchor. Rappel on a 70m rope