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MapDescription
This is a good route on excellent rock. Unfortunately the crux start demoralizes many would-be climbers. Begin with a beautiful set of heavily chalked pockets that are unfortunately much more thin and slopy than they appear from the ground. Once you are 3 feet off the ground the pockets improve dramatically and the climbing eases. This is the first opportunity to clip the first bolt, so a stick clip is recommended. More good pockets lead to a horizontal break, then a short thin section that leads to a sea of unusual nubbins and small chickenheads. Follow the steepening wall to the anchor.
Location
Two routes left (N) of Gunning for the Buddha.
Protection
[4] bolts, 2 BA. This ones easy to toprope.
Routes in North Cliffband
- 18Holy Wars5.11aSport · Tr