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Peak Mountain 3

Fairly Easy

FA Vlada Matena, Tom Rogers, Jana Matena (2017)
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UPDATED 

Description

Fairly Easy is located on the eastern side of Fairview Dome facing the Cathedral Range and Tuolumne Meadows. It is a three pitch climb which ends very near the summit of Fairview Dome.

(1) 5.5R. 200 feet. 4 bolts. Climb past three separate cracks then 4 bolts to a belay on the face. 2-bolt anchor.

(2) 5.5R. 200 feet. 3 bolts. Climb straight up the face to the anchor on a very comfortable ledge. 2-bolt anchor.

(3) 5.5. 190 feet. Ascend straight up to slabs just below the summit. Use gear in horizontal cracks for protection and for the belay anchor (to save the small nearby tree at the top of the pitch).

From the top of pitch 3, it is 200 feet of second class slabs to the summit.

Location

GPS: the route starts at 37.870123 -119.402947

Approach:

Park at the turnout on the highway for all Fairview routes that is 3.5 miles from the store and 4 miles from Tenaya Lake. Hike up around Fairview past the descent route to the start of the climb. This approach hike can take 45 minutes to an hour. Since the Fairview lot by the highway gets filled quickly, a good alternative is to park at the Cathedral Lakes parking. Ascend the JMT towards Cathedral Lakes until the trail levels out and you can see Fairview through the trees. Go cross-country to the base of the climb. This approach also takes about an hour and is a wonderful adventure.

Descent:

Descent is the same as for any other climbs on Fairview which end at or near the summit.

Retreat: Since both pitch 1 and pitch 2 have 2-bolt anchors, it would be possible to rappel twice with two 60m ropes by leaving tied slings and/or biners at the anchors.

Protection

Cams: 0.5-2" in addition to bolts; Optional: large nuts for the gear belay on top of P3 (but it is possible to use cams instead).


Routes in East Face


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    Fairly Easy
    5.4
    Trad