Start with left hand on the best crimper and head directly upward through balancy slab moves. You're heading for the right-facing crack which takes you to the lip.

New Year's Reservation

Wambli Slab

Pete's Crack

Beckelhymer Project

Twist and Grovel

Not Waking

Sugar Pie Honey Bunch

Still Sleeping

Start at the far left edge of the boulder's western face where the vein peters out. Traverse right as the ground slopes up with you, which is nice when you have no spotter; could also go padless for that reason. Crux is in the first 15 feet before getting to the juggy section. A harder (V3-V4?) variation stays low and uses none of the jugs until the end of the face when you dyno to the lip (fun).

This is a great finger crack. The rock is a little loose surrounding the crack, but all holds that matter are solid. It was named in memory of my nephew, Peter Jeffris, who perished on Long's.

Traverses right to left on the boulder just downhill from the

Still Sleeping

boulder. Sharp!

This problems climbs the offwidth/chimney on the western face of chimney rock. Sit start with a foot jammed in the OW and a right hand on the arete/ edge of the OW. Twist and grovel your way up and out of the OW.

Make techy cross over move, and stand up on thin face holds. From here, follow a series of small edges using sequencal footholds to the top.

Goes up the feldspar vein on the left side of the boulder's western face.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Below the Road