This route was submitted subsequently as "Unknown 10b" by Richard Wright, and the descriptions are combined.

This route is placed in the "Questionable" category. There is a hold reinforced with glue. It seems to be the only one, and doesn't look like it was pulled off and then glued back on.

This route is located on the right-hand side of the trail near the top and just to the right of "

Dynamometer

" and behind the tree.  This route is a line of seven bolts that defines a climb-anywhere face that intersects

Dynamometer

below the yellow head wall. A thin start between two large pine trees leads to great crimps and juggy edges with good feet climbing past 7 bolts. The climbing is decent and very well protected. The Fixe rings at the anchor make for a utilitarian top rope.  A very enjoyable climb that does not get 3 stars because there are some suspect flakes which are a little loose on the route, as well as the 2nd bolt being placed in fairly hollow rock. Take care and climb carefully.

The crux comes around the 4th bolt where you will find the hidden hold just above and right of the bolt. Glued hold! From here the climbing eases. A decent line; 2 stars. Lower from the 2-bolt anchor about 70 feet.

Slabbed Up-Side da Head

Dynamometer

Unknown

CG's Naked Fun Time

Lost Time

Edge of Time

Andrology

Oreivatis Rex

East of Eden

[This is a combination of 2 submissions by

Jeff Lockyer

& M Juth]

This route is located on the right hand side of the trail, just before arriving at the Fin (left side of trail), just before reaching the top of the trail. There are 2 obvious pine trees out right, this route starts just uphill of the leftmost tree. The climbing follows a pocketed wall on fun moves to the 2nd bolt, from here there is an obvious pocket for a piece of gear. From here, climb past the 3rd bolt and up to a 2 bolt anchor for the route just right of this line. You can clip one of the bolts on this anchor and continue to the top of the wall past 2 more bolts, a little run out on the top half of the wall with the crux coming very near the top with dyno for those under 6'. The top of the route could use a bolt or 2 more to make the route more enjoyable for all. Good climbing, on a wall with some loose flakes, beware of these, and pull down not out. Dynamometer begins with the first line of bolts right of Andrology. The "studs" have been replaced with good bolts; however, bring a medium cam for the horizontal crack after bolt 3. This climb, like Andrology, feels like it was bolted on lead with some fall potential.

Climb behind the small tree past the first bolts, place a cam and head for the shut above. Some moves felt 10'ish, one with the cam well below your feet. Go up the headwall on beautiful gold rock, that apperars to be loose, but is actually solid. The crux sections begin with a vertical flake, moves past a bolt, and then the "Dyno". At 5'8" I was able to work my feet high enough to just deadpoint for the hold. The final moves to the top are are cruxy as well.

[Eds. There is current a 2 bolt anchor on top.  One has a rap ring & the other is a Metolius rap hanger.  The pull is not easy.]

This line has nice balance moves with secure holds just when you need it. It is similar in style to its neighbors,

East of Eden

and

Edge of Time

.

Note 1: Bernard Gillett's guidebook shows a route named Stegosaurus (5.9R, one bolt) at this location.  It is not known if "CG's Naked Fun Time" is a retro-bolted version of Stegosaurus or if they are different climbs.

This route is located just downhill from "

Slabbed Up-Side da Head

" and the 2 obvious pine trees. The first bolt is located just below an obvious undercling, fairly chalked. From here the climbing climbs straight upon occasional big jugs on steep rock. This route is considered to be PG-13 as a fall after the 2nd bolt may be a long one, with a couple loose flakes in between. Be careful to pull down and not out.

This mixed trad and sport route begins about 10 feet to the left of

Edge of Time

.  Climb up the right-facing chimney/flake system, protecting with medium to large size cams.  The first bolt is about 8 feet above the top end of the chimney/flake system.  Between the first and second bolts there is a nice horizontal crack that will accept C3s, Aliens or very small cams.  The second and third bolts are well spaced. The difficulty of this climb may be height dependent (i.e., may feel like 5.8 to shorter persons instead of 5.7). I thought this climb was a 5.7, while my partner thought it was a 5.8.

Follow the trail to the highest point and turn around (right) to see the obvious sharp arete looking back towards the diamond, a beautiful line.

Perhaps one of the most scenic climbs in the Estes Park area, without being on a wall somewhere. This route is photographed and is on the front cover of the Gillett guide book for the [Estes Park] valley areas. A spectacular line.... It is now a bolt lead only protected by 4 bolts and a pin. You can toprope this route by scrambling to the top of the wall up and left from the base of the route.

From pre-2009:

Andrology is an ultra-classic line on a gorgeous piece of rock. In its previous state, a toprope rehearsal was highly advised for the 30 foot runout to the first clip, since the first bolt had been chopped. This start was "ankles for sure" if you blew it getting to the first clip.

Andrology follows a series of huecos and exciting face climbing up the longest and steepest part of The Fin, and it puts everything else to shame in terms of high quality face climbing. Andrology is one hundred times better climbing than the area classic "

Edge of Time

". Two things happened to make this line become one of the best 5.11+ routes in the Valley (Estes!!): the start was retrobolted in 2009-10 to match the rest of the route. Second, the double bolt anchor on top got new chains to clip from the top of the face. This set up a bee-line rap to the ground using a 60 meter rope. Andrology is a terrific piece of climbing, and it deserved the trivial amount of effort required to turn it into what it should be. N.B.: the huecos are a bit sandy, so watch the feet.

Per

Jon Lachelt

: near the top, the bolt line veers slightly to the left, and then you follow a thin seam back to the right to reach the chains.

Note: this is the "unknown" route left of

Andrology

on the west face of The Fin (referred to as "15 Project (?)" in the Gillett guidebook). I've taken the liberty of naming it "Oreivatis Rex" based on my ascent today. If there has been an earlier redpoint of this line, let me know and I'd be happy to correct the name.

This beautiful wall of steep crimps is guarded by an unfortunate band of exfoliating choss. The rock in the business is stellar, but you have to wade through some junk to get there. Fortunately the holds through the chossy section are all jams and slopey, hueco jugs. The quality of the upper panel makes up for the mungy start, but getting through it is a bit nerve wracking.

Begin up the creaky flake system a few feet from the left end of the wall. Mostly solid hand jams (and a bit of groveling) lead to a horizontal pod system about 20' up. Traverse right here, around the arête, then follow more pods straight up, then angling right, to reach the first bolt. A lower-angle section with big edges leads to the steep headwall. The edges get smaller and farther apart the higher you climb up this stunning panel, culminating in some long, cruxy reaches just below the summit.

This route if located at the top of the trail, on the face just left of "

Edge of Time

". You can scramble to the top of this wall by continuing to the top of the trail, turning right and then going in between the two [obvious] walls, scramble up to your right to get on top of the wall. This description seems vague, but when you are there, it is pretty obvious, sorry.

This route climbs just left of

Edge of Time

as indicated and is decent climbing on top rope, not suggested to be lead, unless it is retrobolted.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Fin