P1: 5.10a. Climb a short crack on a pedestal, about 30' left of Peanuts. At the top of the pedestal, layback up and right to the face holds (takes a good wired stopper or brass nut: #5 BD nut is perfect). The face climbing (~5.8) has two bolts, and ends on a ledge below a hand-crack in a shallow corner. Climb the crack (~10a) and do a few traverse moves left to a two-bolt chained anchor below the roof.

(Completely disregard the info in guidebooks published before 2012: they mistakenly label the dirty corner further left as the 1st pitch. That corner was never part of the route.)

P2: 5.10d. Go over the roof on the right side, grabbing solid flakes and jamming (~10a). Enter the corner (see photo) and follow the corner to a ledge and 3-bolt belay. The crux is the pumpy jams soon after pulling the roof. The crack widens at the top. The top ledge is very comfortable.

Pitch 2 is short but sustained. It also tends to stay clean and dry, even in a light rain.

A double rope (150') reaches the ground. With a single rope, you can rap to the anchor at the top of the first pitch, but it may require a little swinging to be able to grab the chains. From this anchor, a single 60-m rope will reach the ground.

Bowling to Biscuits

Subliminal Seducer

Rice Krispies

This is Index  Not L.A.

Bobcat's Anonymous

Solitude

Below Lissen

A Hatch

Cattalk

Bobcat Cringe

Baby Tapir

House of the 7th Bobcat

An Act of Strange Boar

Steel Pulse

‘Cause I Got High

You Can Cool Jack Robinson

Money

A Ship Called Black Rock

Purple Kool-Aid

Peanuts To Serve You

Law and Order

A Group of Mysteries of Frenchwoman

And Say

The Velvet Pedestal

28 Beers Later

He is Truly a Great Airplane (Hitaga)

P1 5.7 Use the handline to get to the corner. Climb the corner.

P2 11b Splitter finger crack. Use single rack double blue and yellow metolious sizes if you wanna sew it up.

P3 10a More splitter, but cruiser with a sting in the tail finish. Added a bolt on this at the end instead of using cams in the pockets.

P4 11+ Crimpy start leads to a crystal pocket and small over lap then some of the coolest friction slab around Index maybe, I don't know so comment below if you think so as well. Bring one cam .2 or yellow metolious size and 14 draws for this includes anchors. Crux can be easily aided to make sweet 5.10.

P5 11+ Splitter tips just to first knuckle for 20' then capped with a steep bolted finish.

60 meter rope can get you down

14 draws

Single rack to 3" double from the 0 to 2 of metolious sizes

Single set of nuts 1-6  we only placed a couple

Place a small cam and get your granite on reaching a solid finger lock. Easier climbing takes you to the chains.

The flake just R or Strange Boar, sharing the same start. Listed in Sky Valley Rock and in the old Clint Cummins guide.  Re-cleaned and top anchor replaced Feb/Mar 2012.  Rated 10b in most guides, but the hollowness of the flake just below the anchors will give many leaders pause.  Tread lightly as you pull the final roof, or bypass this with a couple delicate moves up chickenheads to the left.

Variation (Pork Fried Rice): 10c *** Continue past the anchors to join Strange Boar after its crux.  An exciting and varied pitch.

This route starts by traversing right as soon as you start Solitude. A bolt protects the traverse move. After you make the travese you will finish on "You can cool Jack Robinson"

A short but worthwhile bouldery climb. Great edges and a memorable crux make for a nice addition to the area.

Start by doing Peanuts to serve you as pitch 1.

For pitch 2, continue up the corner, then take the finger-to-hand crack up and left (crux) to a 3-bolt belay on a nice ledge (10d-11a). Short, but pumpy. You can combine this with pitch 1.

Pitch 3 is the route's overall crux, going up right in a crack that starts wide, but quickly narrows to finger pockets (11a/b). The crack reaches a left-tilting overlap, which starts with a hand pod, but quickly narrows to fingertips (11c/d). After going left for about 25', the crack goes vertical (5.9) and ends on a forested ledge.

For pitch 4, Go up and right through the forest to a cave, and take the short chimney on the left (5.9 entry move, two bolts) to a comfortable, grassy belay stance below a large corner.

The last pitch, pitch 5, is long and sustained. Take the lower-angle ramp/thin corner up and right of the large corner (10b), enter the steeper corner above (11a), and at the top of this corner, go straight up to another corner that goes left. Mantle the ledge on top, go up and left. For the last 10 feet, clip a bolt and do a one-move dyno for the top (incut!)

This route shares the same start as Lookout Point Direct (and can be used as a first pitch to that route.)

Start up the corner just left of House of the 7th Bobcat, go up and left, following the line of 3 bolts. Move left onto the large flake and climb to the belay on top of the flake.

This is pitch 4 of the route An act of strange boar, a group of mysteries of frenchwoman, a ship called black rock, and a hatch. It is at the very top of Lookout Point, and finishes right at the apex as viewed from town, which is left (west) of the flagpole.

Face climb up to the shallow right-facing corner/flake/roof feature, following the line of bolts. The first move is about 10+ or 11-. Upon reaching the top of this feature, follow the thin, rounded crack left across the face. The crack widens and turns the corner, becoming thin hands. The technical crux is the start of the crack, but the real crux is maintaining enough strength to reach the thin hands. There are only the merest of knobs for the feet. End at chains.

Has been done on all gear but the bolts protect sections where one would place gear behind fragile thin flakes. Layback a slopey flake to a ledge, undercling out left to a slightly overhung #1 to .5 Camelot crack with incredible knobs for feet. The finish is a pleasant boulder problem reaching toward a sloper shelf. There is an extention at .10 that leads to the upper tier with "A Hatch" but not really worth it.

The beautiful, steep, curving thin crack R of Peanuts to Serve You.  Start as for Peanuts, then cut R on easy ground (5.9) to reach a 2 bolt belay.  Climb the crack, passing 2 bolts and 1 fixed pin to reach chains.

Includes thin laybacking, pocket pulling, tip-jamming, and knob climbing.

Caveat: I haven't climbed it yet.  But I did take a picture today!

Start by (stick?) clipping a bolt and lumbering past a somewhat silly low roof, or, perhaps more sensibly, by skipping the bolt and bypassing the roof to the right.  Climb through easy blocks to reach a second, less silly roof.  The fun begins here.  Pass the roof and continue up flake system until it ends.  The final holds, for most, are galvanized.

(1) Start on a short handcrack up a trailside block, then continue up moderate ground to a bolt and a final short splitter.  Belay at a comfortable ledge with a chain anchor. 5.9.

(2) Bouldery tips laybacking (crux) past 2 closely spaced bolts leads to a rest pod. 5.10 crack  climbing leads to chain anchor.  5.11+ or maybe 5.12-.

Take care not to soak your rope on the descent, which tends to steer you down the soggy Lookout Direct starting slab just L of the route.  It is also possible to rap or top-rope the entire route with a single 70m rope.

[The full name of this route is actually "An act of strange boar, a group of mysteries of frenchwoman, a ship called black rock, and a hatch."]

Strange Boar is the spectacular dihedral just R of Baby Tapir and just L of Rice Krispies.  It's reminiscent of Slow Children, but thinner and more sustained.

If you have pudgy fingers, you may find this route to be a lot harder than 11a.  Daintier folks, however, may think it's only 5.10.  Either way, climb it. It's a pretty dang classic line.

We climbed the 1st pitch on a warm January day 2014. I red pointed it again in March 2015.

Pitch 1 (100', 10b): Interesting variety of climbing, well bolted at crux moves, great pro everywhere else. Don't let the mossy start scare you off. Most of the pitch is clean, the start is 5.8 at most. Then, the first crux is a short slab traverse past 3 bolts into right-facing, right-leaning corner, 2nd crux is leaving the crack as it tapers off, going for thin flake, 2 more bolts and then the anchor. As with any slab/face moves, conditions can really effect the outcome. Cool dry days are best.

Pitch 2 (60', 10b): Slab crux near start before and after 1st bolt, 2nd bolt protects slab till you gain left end of small overlap. 2nd crux balance move on short slab below anchor.

Pitch 3 (100', 10c): Starts with nice layback cracks, 3 bolts protect upper slab. After passing the 1st bolt (1st crux), there is a hidden pocket- good for a BD #2. There are 2 bolts above here (2nd crux, 10c). Some gear protects the easy top of pitch.

One could combine pitch 1 and 2, or 2 and 3 if wanted.

The Cummins guide rates this as 10c, the later Sky Valley Rock, gave it a 10b.

Climb the rail out of the 60* overhang. Powerful, dynamic climbing on good holds at the very top of Lookout Point, with sweeping views of the Valley. What’s not to like??

If this were a boulder problem in Leavenworth it would be one of the area’s best V8s.

A great knob studed flake to roof. Climb up twin cracks covered in knobs to a thin flake that is positive. This leads to some face climbing on knobs and tcus. You are then rewarded with a slightly overhung right facing corner with flared jams to a mantel at the anchor.

This is the third pitch of An act of strange boar, a group of mysteries of frenchwoman, a ship called black rock, and a hatch. (But it also makes a great alternative 2nd pitch to Law and Order.)

Start in the short hand/layback crack directly above the anchor at the top of p1 of Law and Order, a little right of the top of a group of mysteries of frenchwoman. Move up to the corner (~5.9). Climb corner, using both the corner crack and the crack/edge on the right wall. One 5.10 move is getting past the bulge, another 5.10 section is just above the bulge. After that, it is 5.9 to the chained anchor.

There is an upper chained anchor that is better if you are continuing up Lookout Point. For rapping off or TRing, it may be better to use the lower chained anchor as the upper one may lead to a jammed rope.

Start up Peanuts, but after about 15' traverse right onto a sloping ledge (5.9). Go up the flared, left-facing corner to the chain anchor.

Or, you can climb Peanuts and set up a toprope. The two routes share the same anchor.

A thin, clean flake that starts as a wide, lower-angle layback but thins and steepens into a hand crack.

This is a good route to combine with the routes at Private Idaho and Them for a bunch of 5.9 climbing next to each other.

Long corner system to the right of Rice Krispies and Spit.

Pitch 1 starts with face climbing on large holds (~20'). Clip a bolt, then move left to the left-facing groove and rib. Follow this bolt-protected, right-trending corner (~9+/10a). See the bottom red arrow in the picture. About 30' up the corner, the corner system splits into two. The original route went up the shallower left corner (~5.9) (next red arrow), which then traversed back into the right corner at a bolt (5.10) (see 3rd red arrow in photo). But staying in the right corner (green arrow) gives fun 5.9+ climbing, a mixture of face-climbing and thin jams. Where the two variations merge, the climbing goes up a slot with excellent pinch-grips on the rib (~5.8+). The pitch ends on the top of the pedestal, and has 3 bolts with chains.

Pitch 2 goes up the large left-facing corner directly above and left of the anchor. Look for the bolt on the slab. It is a little runout to that bolt. Then stay in the corner (10c), protecting with small cams and nuts. A three-bolt anchor is on top.

For a second pitch you can instead do the pitch to the right, "A Ship Called Black Rock". See the separate description for this pitch.

The first pitch anchor is about 20' right of that for A group of mysteries of frenchwoman. With a short belay, one can move the anchor to toprope one or the other. To rap off with one rope, you might need to go to the Frenchwoman anchor and rap to the strange boar anchor. From the strange boar anchor, you can rap to the ground with one 60-m rope.

This climb is the second pitch of An act of strange boar. From the Strange boar ledge, start up the hand crack just right of where strange boar ends. From the top of this short crack, go up and slightly right into a slot. Stem the slot (funky moves, 5.8+) to reach a nice perch on top of a pedestal. The anchor has two bolts and chains.

P1: 5.9. Start in the blocky corner. It gets cleaner and nicer as you go up. After an intermediate chained anchor (~15-m up; do not belay here), there is a 5.9 finger-crack/layback move on a right-leaning crack that goes up to some hand jams behind a flake. At the top of the flake, and just upon reaching the steep finger crack, traverse left on the sloping ledge to a chained belay anchor.

P2: 10a. Walk left past the tree. Then traverse left on the slab past the bolt. Face climb up the minor roof to a left-pointing layback crack, and then left-trending layback crack. Good friction on the slabs, but no real footholds, so this crack is pumpy. Chained anchor on the ledge above. Except for the slabby start, this is classic Index corner climbing. It is somewhat like the 2nd pitch of Rattletale except pointing the other way.

P3: 5.8. Presently, the only way this has been ascended is by trending up and right to the large, left-facing corner with trees. It is presently uncleaned, and quite the grovel through trees, but when cleaned up will rival the super-classic second pitch. But not recommended even for fans of brush-tree groveling due to there being two loose flakes, one the size of a refrigerator door.

Face-arete variations to P2 and P3 have been cleaned off, but haven't been finished yet. Please wait on these.

A surprising hidden gem that sits below the ledge of Bobcat Cringe. Excellent moves the entire way up with the crux at the 3rd bolt. Well bolted with an easy to reach anchor from the Bobcat Cringe ledge.

(AKA HITAGA) From the large, treed ledge just above the Bobcat Cringe, scramble up the huge detached flake, step across to the upward-left-arching ramp. Go up the thin corner in the otherwise blank face to the large ledge about 2/3 up the face.

The crux is bolt-protected, thin laybacking near the top.

After the crux, you must mantle up onto the belay ledge, which has a two-bolt, chained anchor. It is also possible to exit the ledge on the left and join the next-to-last pitch of Solitude.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lookout Point