First route on the face right of the Rainbow Roof. Starts just right of a blunt arete. This one is a classic!

 First pitch (5.10d): A 5.9 start gives way to gradually more difficult but super fun climbing, with a thought-provoking, but well-protected high crux. Hidden holds, right where you need them. 75 feet, 8 + anchors.

 Second pitch (5.10c): Head left from first set of anchors into a crack system. Climb slabby crack to large blocks, then up onto a sizeable ledge under a roof. Move left to exit the roof, straddling precariously on a sharp arete, then trend rightward up a slab to anchors below a large oak tree. Easy to top out and walk off.  70 feet, 7 + anchors.  

 Both pitches can be linked, but be prepared for a little rope drag at the end. TWO RAPPELS ARE NECESSARY - KNOT THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPES!.  If there's a lot of traffic on the route its polite to rap from the top anchors down to the extension pitch anchors(second set) of Butt Monkeys, its actualy a better repel option to begin with in my opinion.  The anchors are 25' climbers left of Beyond Hell, Above Heaven's first pitch anchors.

27.  Beyond Hell, Above Heaven

20.  1.21 Gigawatts

14.  Indecent Exposure

23.  Welcome to the 906

28b.  Intergalatic STDs

18b.  Silver Sickness

29.  Alpha Nerd

11.  Between A Block And A Hard Place

38.  Wine Line

17.  Best Seat In The House

30.  Sexus (aka The Diagonal Crack)

34.  Love Street

40.  Big Laughing Gym

16.  Silver Sweetness

3.  Ten Meters of Teamwork

9.  Rainbow Catwalk

21.  Pepsi Showers

Sneaking Past the Guard

18a.  Silver Gold

28c.  Intergalatic STDs

33.  Swamp Thing

26b.  "ADBM" Extension, Left (Direct) Variation

28a.  Intergalactic STDs

7.  Super Mario's Magic Mushroom

32b.  Queen Bee Extension

1.  That Shitty Mossy Crack

Mosquito Bait

39.  Ivy's Poison

31.  Footloose (aka The Sport Route)

24.  Sloth-Like Reflexes

10.  Carpe Dildo

2.  High Gravity Day

26c  "ADBM" Extension, Right Variation

32a.  Queen Bee

25b.  Golden Heart Direct

4.  Yo Momma

36.  Matrix (aka Buck Angel Crack)

12.  Dripping With Cooties

26a.  Anal Dwelling Butt Monkeys (ADBM)

[Redacted]

5. Yo Momma's Crack

6.  Yo Sister

25c.  Golden Heart Bypass

13.  More Cowbell

26d.  "ADBM" Upper Pitch

37. Don't Panic, and Bring Your Towel

8.  Geriatric Death Metal

22.  Crack Debit Or Credit

25a.  Golden Heart

Ariel map of route locations

15.  God Bless Stretchy Pants

19.  Revenge Of The Barking Spiders

Accessed by climbing first pitch of Beyond Hell/Above Heaven (#25) and traversing left after the first bolt of the second pitch. There is one bolt to protect the traverse and short downclimb to anchors on a small ledge.

 From the anchors, step a bit left and climb up a short corner on thin holds to reach a major ledge. Continue up the dihedral system, utilizing the inside corner, arete, and right face. The dihedral switches abruptly from right facing to left facing at mid-route. Exit up and right. Tops out on a slab. While belaying, watch out for rope drag over sharp crystals at top. 

 65 feet, 10+ anchors.

Climb 6 feet up to a rightward diagonal crack that leads up to the anchors of route #21.  Can be dirty?

* This route is accessed by climbing the Rainbow Catwalk.**

 Start at the first set of anchors you encounter on the Catwalk.  A crux start (high left foot mantel type move to mondo jug rail) leads to blocky climbing, ending with a delicate small roof notch, followed by much chiller climbing to anchors.

From the main approach trail, this is the first climb you come to under the Rainbow Roof. A fun and safe introduction to Silver Mountain and an excellent first lead. 

First pitch, Direct Variation (5.11b): Starts just left of an obvious diagonal crack system. Climb a sheer face on thin crimps and sidepulls to the same set of anchors as the Traverse Variation. Sustained climbing. 50 feet, 5 + anchors.

Extension of Silver Gold. From the chains, climb slightly right and strike out through the roof. Monkey your way through spread-out jugs to gain the arête and notch. A large ape index helps tremendously.

Starts between the alternate first pitch variations for Intergalatic STDs (#26). Extremely varied terrain. Unfortunately the start of this one is not consistant with the rest of the route (harder). Climb tenuous moves up a thin face past 3 bolts.  Crux is clipping the second bolt; recommended to stick clip the second bolt if at all possible. 

 After the crux, climb through a relaxed slab section to a finger crack a mid route. Crux a bit through the crack and head up and left, just circumventing a small roof section.  Then head back right and climb a heavily featured blocky section to gain a rightward leaning crack system to the anchors. 

 100 feet, 10 bolts + anchors.

Super classic!  There is a huge tree next to a nearly flat belay block at the base of this route. Start just right of first bolt and wander your way through the first three bolts to gain a series of large semi detached blocks. Bear hug, lieback, and tip-toe your way to a rest before the crux. After the crux section, a much more chill yet still on ya finish awaits.  Finish in vertical crack right of anchors.

The farthest route climbers right on the main wall, just before you enter the *** POISON IVY*** patch.  Start in front of the tree that's branches touch the wall.  The Line begins with a short finger crack climbing off a small ledge at one meter.  Climb up the seams, and out from under the tree to the sunshine above.  Continue up the broken cracks up and right to a tree anchor high above.

* This route is accessed by climbing the Rainbow Catwalk.**

 Fourth and last set of anchors on the Catwalk. Crux start headed right and up gives way to a left-leaning series of interspersed finger- and hand-cracks. Heads up and right for last couple of bolts.  Wicked free air rappel from mid anchors, just left of hanging cedar tree on the lip of Rainbow Roof.

Climb the obvious diagonal crack for 40 feet, then head up a short, blocky face to a big pine tree on a ledge.

 Trad + chains on pine tree.

Very cool waves in the rock at the start are evidence of glacial scarring from the last ice age, approximately 10,000 years ago. This is a thin and tight route with a sick crux about 15 feet below the anchors. Climb past the anchors for Hooters (AKA Resurrection, #33), up and left to this route's anchors.

 70 feet, 8 bolts + anchors.

Different style than most of Silver Mountain.

 Step up onto the second ledge and hope you warmed up well enough. Boulder through the bottom with excellent gear into the top of the crack, aaaaaand it's over.  Anchors do not have rings and are pretty far back from the top of the crack, if looking to TR bring long cord or webbing.

 Would be an excellent highball if the landing zone was better.

 As the first ascensionist is unknown, the name is a suggestion.

 35 feet, trad + anchors.

* This route is accessed by climbing the Rainbow Catwalk.**

 Start at the third set of anchors on the Catwalk.  Third pitch of #16/17 (Silver Gold and Silver Sickness). Thin foot-dependent crux start to second bolt clipping jug.  Head up and right through blocks, to an awkward triangular dihedral.  Get your mantle on.  Zag left away from bolt line, farther than you think you should go, because that's where the feet are. Then cut back hard right and head up and right diagonally till it relents straight up.

An easy slab leads to an awkward dihedral. Huff and grunt to surmount a small roof, then find some hidden holds to unlock the short headwall to the anchors. 

It’s getting crazy up here in the 906! This route traverses left to right through routes #7-12, clipping a bolt each on routes 7, 10, 11, and 12 along with a few in between. Usually climbed to access the start of the routes above the Rainbow Roof, but is a fun route in and of itself. Also good for experiencing a free-air rappel over the roof. 

 Start left of route #7 and head right, aiming for a horizontal ledge system over the Rainbow Roof. 70-130 feet, 6-13b's + anchors.  

 ***Communicate with fellow climbers as to your plans to do this route and the routes it accesses, because it crosses existing routes and climbs above routes below the roof!  If it's a busy day at the crag, do not attempt!!***

Very fun route. Climb a slab to an eye-catching pink/orange headwall right of an arete. Consistent fun climbing on interesting holds. Anchors in roof.

Go right just before the first set of stairs. Stay low, after about 100 yards you'll see it on the left with a small tree (5 inch in diameter) about a foot and a half away from the cliff. BETA SPRAY ALERT: Sit start matched on a right slanting rail and a left foot backstep. Left hand up to a jug, throw a right heel up, make a bump to an undercling, switch to a toe, then fling yourself up to a left hand slightly sloping rail while making sure you sneak past the guard of the small tree behind you. Finish out left. It would be better if the tree wasn't there but I didn't want to tick anyone off by cutting it down. All in all its a pretty dang good Boulder problem.

Leftmost route under Rainbow Roof. Climb ledges to face, anchors just under roof.  All 3 "Silver" routes (Gold, Sickness, and Sweetness) can be linked, but expect some rope drag.

Second pitch (5.10d): Wander up and right through surprisingly clean jugs to a ledge next to a large pine tree, then trend left up a beautiful black face to some bulges. Stay right of the bolt line for last 2 bolts, then traverse left to second set of anchors. 70 feet, 8 + anchors.  

 Can be linked into one pitch from both variations (with some rope drag). TWO RAPPELS NECESSARY.  KNOT YOUR ENDS!

Only for desperate and deprived tradsters.  Usually wet and dirty.  Climb the obvious left-leaning, greenish crack 10 feet right of Queen Bee (#30). Use Queen Bee's anchors.

*NOT YET BOLTED AS OF 12/2019**

 Left variation of the second-pitch extension of Anal Dwelling Butt Monkeys. From first set of anchors, head up and left through multiple thin and strenuous overhangs to a second set of anchors. 65 feet, currently just anchors.  Soon to be equipped by P.P.

First pitch, Traverse Variation (5.10b): Starts immediately right of Beyond Hell/Above Heaven (#25) and traverses right, following a nearly horizontal hand crack for first 10 feet. Then climb up and continue traversing right using the same crack for your feet. After the fourth bolt, follow the bolts up and diagonally right to anchors on a small ledge. 60 feet, 6 + anchors.

Climb slab to a roof 30 feet up with a splitter crack in it. Pull the heinous roof crux, and trust those feet to surmount and clip the next bolt.  Finish on vert/slab.

This is the full Queen Bee route. Ascend a heavily featured face to a crack, then continue up and right through a chill slab to a nice ledge. Clip one of the bolts of the anchor and battle through an awkward diagonal crack to better holds on a headwall. Anchors below a small roof.

A shitty, mossy, dirty crack, that with some cleaning actually is fun. Balancing and flaring cracks make this a challenging trad climb.  

Based on the amount of lichen and moss I scrubbed off this thing I'm guessing no one has climbed it. Please let me know if I am wrong about this. Start left hand low on arete, right on an undercling grip around right arête, and a right heel. Slap your way to the top. There exists a low start the would be proper burly.

Start at the base of a ledge system which leads to a face split by a crack system.  Climbs just right of white, orange, and black streaked section.

The lower trail from the climber cul-de-sac puts you near at the bottom of this route. This was the first bolted route at Silver in the early 1990s. Start right of the diagonal crack system. A spicy, technical route with several cruxy sections. Sustained but rewarding.

 80 feet, 9 bolts + anchors.

Starts on a short right-facing arete. Crux off the deck, then a chill 5.8 through incut ledges and a couple of cool geode pockets. Pull out your mantle moves to reach the anchor!

Begin on rightward-angling ramp and climb onto the huge ledge, then continue right to the left-facing dihedral. From there, meander up and left, using blocks and dihedrals. Top out left of cedar tree or use anchors for toprope. This route eats gear!

Currently the leftmost bolted route. Starts just inside a hemlock corridor. A shorty but a goody with a stout, height dependent little roof.

*NOT YET BOLTED AS OF 12/2019**

 Right variation of the second-pitch extension of Anal Dwelling Butt Monkeys. From the anchors, bust out up and right into a left-facing dihedral and overhang. Monkey time! Traverse left out the lip of the overhang on surprisingly good jugs while working on your heel- and toe-hooking skills. Strenuous. Turn the lip and climb a short dihedral to second set of anchors on a ledge.  70 feet, anchors only. SOON TO BE EQUIPPED.

Ascend a heavily featured face to a crack, then continue up and right through a chill slab. The first set of anchors are just above a nice ledge. (60 feet, 6 bolts + anchors). 

 The extension ups the grade to 5.11b. Battle through an awkward diagonal crack to better holds on a headwall. Anchors below a small roof. (20 feet, 2 bolts + anchors).

Sickest route at Silver! This is the right bolt line from the top of Golden Heart. Belay from right set of anchors and incorporate a bolt about 5 feet to the right to get the belayer out of the fall zone. Head up and right to blank headwall. Huge moves between nothing holds. Get ready to log some flight time on this one. Does not let up until just below the anchors.

Start from a small ledge under the right side of Desolation Roof. Begin climbing up and right, following a diagonal crack. Step over a notch and make your way to a rightward-leaning slab. Finish left at top of slab. Shares last bolt and anchors with #5. Clip the perma draw on the third bolt to clean as you descend. 

This route starts directly below the short section of fist crack 8' off the ground and 10' right of the bolts on Resurrection. Climb through the fist crack to a mantel of sorts, which gains you access to great gear in the finger crack above. Bust a move left through a compression sequence followed by a devious crux that is equal parts power and balance. Once through the crux you will be rewarded with good gear and eventually a no hands rest. The rest of the route is more moderate, around 10+ but requires a full arsenal of techniques and stays with you.

 100 feet, trad + anchors.

Maybe the best line in the U.P.!  This one is on you right from the ground; recommended stick clipping the first bolt. Rest on a small ledge before tip-toeing your way up a sheer face.  Using your pocket microscope to look for foot holds, trust what little you can find. Technical, thin, and continuous.  

Right-most climb under the Rainbow Roof.  Crux is getting to and from a large flake 10 feet up (consider stick-clipping).  Head up and right to beginning of orange and white streaked blocky overhanging terrain. Anchors are in a small roof; can be hard to spot from the ground.

*MIXED CLIMB** 

 Resurrection-To bring back to life-I spotted this line in the fall of 2014 and came back to clean and work it summer 2015. Upon setting up a line from the trees above, I discovered two anchor bolts at mid-cliff height slightly left and above the line(later learned are the anchor bolts for the route Love Street, which has been chopped and waiting to be rebolted). I began to clean the lichen and moss from the crack system as best as possible, burning up a wire brush in the process. Lower down on the route, I uncovered two chopped bolts in thick lichen, protecting the opening moves off the ground.  The route has been re-bolted to its original state.  Tight start on side-pulls past 3 bolts leading to a left-leaning finger/hand crack.  After crack peters out, head up and right past 2 more bolts to first set of anchors.

 Standard rack up to #1, 5 bolts, + anchors.

Start on Yo Momma.  Once you gain the ledge, trend up and right using the obvious crack system to the left of the slab.  Takes gear well.  Caution: slippery when wet.  Finish on Yo Momma's anchors. 

Technical and thuggy crux off the deck; stick clip first bolt. Unlock the wicked roof, then trend up and right on consistant crimps staying on the face right of the arête, don't reach around the arete till your under the last bolt on the slab.  Shares last bolt and anchors with #4.

Left bolted line from the Golden Heart anchors.  Use the right set of anchors to belay.  Head up and left from anchors. Liebacks and crimps are the name of the game of this one.  Continuous.

First route left of Rainbow Roof. Tough for first 20 feet; find underclings. Interesting climbing through varied terrain. A 60M rope with stretch just gets you down.

One of the best cracks in the UP, thoughtful movement with creative jamming and an easily protected crux.Start in a crack that points up and left to a 6" crack. Follow the line of weakness above the OW to a finger crack. Delicate movement at the top to gain the slopey ledge. Traverse right on the ledge to the next crack system. Proceed up this next line of weakness up to a small ledge below a triangular cutout with a two inch crack around halfway. From here, follow the left line of weakness up through the cutout into a stellar left facing finger crack. Take the finger crack up and follow the blocks to the anchors.You can take a right at the upper triangular cutout through the shrub, but the climbing is better (and harder) if you choose the left crack system.This route was originally named "Lucky Scars" by P.P. and L.P. when established as a top rope climb. It likely joins the end of wine line at the slopey ledge. It does have the potential to extend into the blank upper face with some more cleaning, an anchor, and a couple bolts to make a gnarly mixed route following the first line of weakness strait up, past the slopey ledge and into the blank headwall.

A little bit of everything on this one! Slab to a large ledge at 15 feet. Grapple with an interesting Texas-shaped block, move left onto wavy overhangs and a thin headwall, then pull onto a good ledge, then a slab finish.

Marked by a crisp vertical section of crack near the first bolt. A low crux leads to smooth sailing all the way to the roof.  

Classic. Marked by the yellow, moss-covered, somewhat heart-shaped block at ¾ height.  Try not to get wedged into the alcoves...they feel safe to get into, but good luck getting out of them! Use the left set of anchors to top rope this pitch (to avoid a sharp edge).  Both Golden Heart/Bypass and Golden Heart/Direct can be linked, but watch for rope drag.

* This route is accessed by climbing the Rainbow Catwalk.**

 Start at the second set of anchors on the Catwalk.  Crux at the start.  Gain a seam and scamper through lie-backs, ledges, and crimpers.  All decent holds.

Start on a large boulder at the base and pull out your mantle moves right away! Climb ledges to face, and one more mantle to reach the anchors in the roof.

27. Beyond Hell, Above Heaven

Description

Protection

Routes in Main Wall