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Peak Mountain 3

Superior Crack

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Description

There are basically two approaches to climbing this corner. The first is to embrace offwidth technique and the second is to stem in the corner. The rock has lots of features making stemming a viable option but this certainly makes it seem harder than 5.8+. This route it slightly overhung so be prepared for a swing if you pop off.

RCM&W #49, p.214.

Location

About 50 yards northeast of the parking lot. Follow the cliff line past Bluebells to a corner with a large crack.

Protection

For lead large cams, Big Bros, and any other off-width gear you have, there's some smaller stuff in there too but not much. Standard Top Rope setup, I would recommend using a belay device that allows you to easily lower the climber in case they pop off (i.e. not a reverso).


Routes in Palisade Head


  1. 41
    Superior Crack
    5.9-
    Tr · Trad