- Edit (TBD)
Description
Do you like choss? Do you wake up in the morning longing for a bit of lichen and dirt in your eyes? Well look no further because this baby’s got it all.
About 25 ft north of “Goliath’s Finger Crack.” A detached pillar leads to a few exposed/reachy 5.7-5.8 moves, to a finger crack, to a ledge. Once at the ledge continue up the tight dihedral/chimney and shimmy your way to another ledge. From here a bomber #3 can be placed. Fire off some slopey face moves to the left and pull the mini-overhang (Crux1) which can be protected by a very nice #2 or a .3/.4 down low. From here the gear is good but the last 15 ft has lots of dirt and lichen.If you find yourself in the area with a brush it could definitely use it. I cleaned this route up quite a bit but the rock quality is still quite poor.Not sure on the grade.
Location
About 20 ft north of “Goliath’s finger crack” is a sloped dirt ramp down to an exposed rock edge (see pictures).
Protection
A large clump of birch trees about 15 ft back can be slung and used as a TR anchor. The top out location is fairly steep and a bit loose. For leading I used doubles .3-.75 , singles of 1-4, and a set of micros. If you get my purple .5 out lemme know. :)
Routes in Palisade Head
- 59“A twister with teeth”5.9Trad